Ensnared

The PubScout gets hooked by the excellent beers at Flytrap Brewing in Downtown Wilmington.

Two questions sprang immediately to mind as Father Dave and I pulled up barstools at Flytrap Brewing in ILM after driving an hour through torrential rain from OIB.

First, what makes the plant called Dionaea muscipula (the Venus flytrap, native only to NC) so cool? Simple. It’s carnivorous.

I recall buying one fresh out of college to see it eat hamburger. Hey, it was 1969, and when you’re 21, lots of seemingly cool things, like white vinyl platform shoes, Nehru Jackets and bell bottoms, grab your attention.

Second, why hadn’t my beer nut friends told me about this place? Possible answer: They wanted it all to themselves.

Because the beers that come out of that tiny three-barrel system are, for the most part, exceptional. They are crafted by two women — one named Amber (whom I did not know, but which is a damned fine name for a brewmistress), and the other named Alexis. Alexis Scrivani, in fact, who plied her trade at the now-defunct Mannkind Brewery in Leland.

And those-in-the-know know that Scrivani’s skill in the brewhouse was decidedly not the cause for the company’s “defunctness” because she was making some exceptional beers there for many months.

She is clearly continuing to display that skill at Flytrap Brewing, a place dedicated to that flora. In good weather, you can venture out into the biergarten and park your bicycle in a beautiful piece of art honoring the plant.

On this rainy day, however, foot-washing would have been a more practical activity. But rain outside could not dampen the quality of Scrivani’s beers inside. Many of the recipes she inherited from Owner Mike Barlas, the homebrewer (surprise, surprise) who took his hobby to the next level.

But many of the beers on tap are indeed her own, and the savvy beer nut will enjoy sampling them.

The tap room is clean and comfortable, and artwork by local artists adorns the walls. For these two months, that would be an artist named Missy Tripp Ronquillo, but these artists rotate on a regular basis.

Usually, 12 beers are on tap and available, though some — two exceptional saisons, actually, are available in 500 ml bottles.

Father Dave served as my Subscout on this visit, and we sampled most of the beers in two distinct flights, served by Father Guido Sarducci lookalike, John. Some say he’s the image of watermelon-smashing Gallagher, but you can decide. Helluva nice guy, either way.

The Good Padre and I were impressed by many of the beers, though we were particularly enamored of both the original Saison, and the citrus Saison with Blackberries which came in the aforementioned bottles. Father Dave even took home a four-pack to serve to Mother Superior Eileen in the sacristy.

The Czech Pilsner was also outstanding, and the New Zealand Pilsner was a close second. For my money, making the Czech Flytrap’s “transitional” beer will bring the newbie immediately into the world of craft beer. The Blonde Ale, with notes of fruit and spice, was also serviceable for the purpose, but the Czech put a bold exclamation mark on the process.

Rehder’s Red, which is actually an amber, was malty with a hint of dry hop finish on the back end. It’s named for a Venus flytrap preservationist.

Folks Coffee Dubbel would have pleased any monastery monk if it was served for breakfast (or anytime else, for that matter). Made with cold brew coffee from the local Folks Cafe, it is rich in flavor. Sadly, the folks at Folks are entering a well-deserved retirement, so a new coffee source will need to be found. But I am sure Flytrap will snare one.

The two IPAs on the menu — Flytrap IPA and a West Coast IPA — were quite good and on style.

The only hazy beer was a Hazy Pale Ale, a seeming favorite of three gals who walked in after us. As it turned out, they were Jersey Girls who recognized Father Dave’s hoodie from the Stone Pony in Asbury Park. You may remember that place as some supposedly famous guitarist/singer whose name escapes me got his start there. I suppose I’ll just keep Dancing in the Dark, but it turned out that Diana, one of the gals, was wearing her Stone Pony shirt, so an immediate bond was formed.

Now for those two saisons. Crisp. crackly, peppery and totally refreshing, they were dead on style and outstanding. The PubScout is not usually a fan of any sour beer, but the Blackberry Citrus Saison was deliciously tart, but not sour. A couple bottles of either farmhouse ale after summer yard work in your garden — or on your entire farm — would be a great reward for your efforts.

There was a creditable Czech Dark lager and a delectable Gingerbread imperial stout (8.2%), but let that last warm up a bit. Then sit back, relax and savor the flavors of molasses, cinnamon, ginger and clove. If you find you want more than one, get a crowler and drink it at home for safety’s sake.

In all, it was a comfortable afternoon inside, despite the nasty dampness outside. So comfortable, in fact, that Maggie and Aaron were able to play a spirited board game on the bar. And I got to meet a new comely lass and drinking buddy called Riley.

There’s no food served at Flytrap, but a cadre of quality food trucks stops there. So patrons can certainly eat.

And they can be eaten. As Dionaea muscipula has a ravenous appetite for beer lovers.

Want to go?
Flytrap Brewing
319 Walnut Street, Wilmington
(910) 769-2881
flytrapbrewing.com